It’s morel time! Yes, the late April turkey season means it’s
also time to heat up the cast iron skillet for these wild fungi my husband
brings home from his turkey hunts.
When my spouse first
introduced me to these alien-looking treats, I wasn’t sure I should put something
that ugly on the table. Of course, there was also the issue of worrying about
poisonous mushrooms. He assured me he’d found and eaten morels since he was a
little boy so I needn’t worry about dying an early death from consuming
these. After I fried that first batch and helped devour them, I realized he
knew good wild food when he saw it. These edibles capture the essence of spring—fresh,
earthy, and rich.
Lovers of these seasonal treats get antsy when the
temperatures rise and rain falls. Both are necessary for a decent harvest of an
object that looks like a cup-shaped sponge on a stem. Recent dry years have
frustrated even the best mushroom hunters.
My fungi finder has the greatest success when he returns to
spots where he’s found treasure in the past. They are fungi so they reproduce
from spores that spread when something, be it human, beast, or wind, moves the
host. The act of picking them releases these reproductive parts so they do grow
back in the same places under favorable conditions.
Finding these delectables is an iffy proposition that
depends on perfect weather conditions as well as whether or not some other
hunter—homo sapien or critter—gets to the patch first. To propagate spores for
next year’s harvest, many ‘shroomers carry a net bag to store their finds so
the microscopic organisms spread as the hunter carries the bag through the
woods. This technique also prevents their finds from getting mushy.
Once those goodies are home, the cook needs to shake and brush
off as much dirt and as many of the tiny insects that occupy those crevices as
possible. No matter how small, each morel is its own universe and resulting home
to a vast and varied population of tiny critters. Once they’re clean, it’s time
to slice, halve, or dice. Avoid soaking or freezing morels. These actions may destroy
every bug, but they leads to mushy mushroom syndrome. Folks who harvest more than a mess, clean and
dry them for later use.
Scores of morel recipes exist. For those who want to savor
that taste of pure spring, go simple. Slice or halve them lengthwise, dip in an
egg or milk wash, and roll them in either seasoned flour or cracker crumbs.
Then fry them in sizzling oil until they’re crispy. Drain and serve the flavor
of April and May on a pretty platter. We never have to worry about leftovers at
our house when I serve them this way.
If you prefer more creative ways to serve these, I have a friend who minces her morels, sautés
them in real butter, and then encloses them in a cream cheese pastry that she
pops in the oven until it’s golden. While I prefer fried, those woodsy popovers
melt in my mouth.
Morels may be the ugliest food ever cooked, but they’re
worth trying. Folks who invest the time to learn to identify edible mushrooms
and the make the effort to find them hidden in wooded areas will harvest a
tasty meal or two each spring. In addition, they’ll make good memories.